Synthetics
Cashmeran smells like a strong, sweet, and aromatic blend of spicy musk, floral notes, and woody undertones.
Luebke, William tgsc, (1996): Rich spicy musk woody clean
IFF: Diffusive, spicy, musk-like odor with strong floral reinforcement. powdery, velvet nuance. long lasting. aromatic, apple, earthy, woody, red fruit, pine
Whilst analyzing impurities in a gc chromatogram a researcher at iff got intrigued by a hydrocarbon. he started to manipulate it and when he decided to oxidize it, he obtained cashmeran. since the introduction of cashmeran its production process has been greatly improved. this allowed for an improved price performance ratio and has increased the versatility of cashmeran across end use applications.
Moellhausen: Diffusive, spicy, musk with strong floral note (sweet aromatic)
PerfumersWorld: Diffusive spicy musk strong floral woody sweet aromatic
Taytonn ASCC: Earthy, floral, fruity, musk/ musky, pine, powder/ powdery, spicy, woody
Pell Wall Perfumes: Musk-like, spicy, floral, fruity, rich, musty solvent
Description from iff: “diffusive, spicy, musk-like odor with strong floral reinforcement. powdery, velvet nuance. long lasting. aromatic, apple, earthy, woody, red fruit, pine.” the paper copy of the iff compendium, where this material is classified as an amber rather than primarily a musk odourant, tells us that it was first developed after analysis of an impurity in the gc for another material and that improvements in the production process since then have increased the option for its use significantly. we are also told that it makes “great combinations” with “timbersilk, citronellol, ISO eugenol, delta damascone” and is “useful in creating spicy carnation florals, amber musk notes, orientals and woody accords”. in the words of the authors of scent and chemistry, “cashmeran is a unique synthetic odorant which combines floral-fruity musky with conifer-type woody aspects in perfect balance. high proportions of around 25?% of cashmeran were used by maurice roucel in “dans tes bras” (frederic malle, 2008), and by alessandro gualtieri in “duro” (nasomatto, 2007).” furthermore, “cashmeran and kephalis are key ingredients in the trendy oud/agarwood accords. cashmeran especially links the dark woody side to the animalic musky side of oud with its coniferous woody aspects and its unique floral-fruity musk tonality.” arcadi boix camps writing in 1985, classifies cashmeran as a floral odourant while acknowledging the difficulty of placing this unique material in any category. he says it is “a strong, floral, musky product of great diffusion and personality” that “combines very well with green grass , as well as derivatives of cis-3-hexenol, triplal and such blends as amber, floral, coiraceous, and woody. it combines especially well with allyl amyl glycolate, which it enhances, producing a radiance.” he goes on to say that “it is interesting to note the effects of cashmeran with subtle, fruity chemicals and ethyl levulinate and allyl caproate and with blends of methyl nicotinate, myrrh resinoid and absolute maté.” cashmeran is normally solid at room temperature, and although its melting point is usually quoted as 27 centigrade, in practice it takes the addition of quite a lot more heat energy to melt it than that might lead you to expect.
Harrison Joseph: Peculiar but quite trendy in modern fragrances: musky spicy; rain-dashed stone.