Condensed Milk Accord
by Fragrance Drama
| Material | CAS # | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Sotolone 0.1% | 28664-35-9 | 1.00 |
| Gamma Nonalactone 1% | 104-61-0 | 1.00 |
| Methyl Cyclopentenolone 1% | 765-70-8 | 1.00 |
| Maltol Crystals | 118-71-8 | 3.00 |
| Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Natural 10% | 60-12-8 | 5.00 |
| Eugenol Natural Ex Clove 1% | 121-33-5 | 5.00 |
| Furaneol Crystals 0.1% | 5.00 | |
| Coumarin Crystals | 91-64-5 | 5.00 |
| Butyl Butyryl Lactate Natural 1% | 7492-70-8 | 7.00 |
| Levistamel 1% | 675-09-2 | 7.00 |
| Methyl Laitone | 94201-19-1 | 10.00 |
| Habanolide | 111879-80-2 | 12.00 |
| Butter CO2 1% (or Butyric Acid 0.1%) | 13.00 | |
| Ethyl Vaniliin | 121-32-4 | 15.00 |
| Ethyl Lactate 1% | 97-64-3 | 16.00 |
| Vanillyl Methyl Ether | 120-14-9 | 24.00 |
| Ambrettolide | 28645-51-4 | 30.00 |
| Acetoin 0.1% | 513-86-0 | 36.00 |
| Ethylene Brassylate | 105-95-3 | 40.00 |
| Vanillin Natural Ex Clove | 121-33-5 | 60.00 |
| Sulfurol 1% | 137-00-8 | 60.00 |
| Exaltolide | 106-02-5 | 120.00 |
| Triethyl Citrate Natural | 18829-56-6 | 124.00 |
| Milk Lactone | 70851-61-5 | 400.00 |
| Total | 1000.00 | |
About the formula
Introduction
This accord, for me, specifically recalls cooking condensed milk over the stove in Grasse, France with a friend who is the Scientific Director of the Musée Internationale de la Parfumerie (@mip_grasse). It combines milky and creamy raw materials with some of the naturalistic, butyric facets inherent to dairy, which can be somewhat unpleasant to some noses if smelled on their own.
The Sensory Experience
These cheesy or buttery facets are balanced with materials that recall the many facets of condensed milk’s depth and sweetness: vanilla, caramel, smoky burnt sugar from the bottom of the pan, custard-like effects, nutty/toasted tonka and maple-like fruity notes, etc.
Completing the Accord
To finish the accord and to make it more sensible for a fine fragrance application, there is a musk complex similar in profile to something like the supremely silken accord found in Musc Ravageur, which can be added or subtracted depending on the level of naturality the perfumer wishes to evoke.
Personalizing the Accord
Too, the levels of milkiness, sweetness, etc. are all meant to be adjusted to the perfumer’s personal taste; we don’t all have the same experience with this food product! Happy blending.
Everyone, we continue to share accords in the collective sharing project and this time, the perfumer who joined is Michael Nordstrand. Trained at Givaudan (@givaudan @givaudanperfume), ISIPCA (@isipcaparis) and GIP (@gipgrasse), Michael works as an independent perfumer and teaches with @artandolfaction, a nonprofit organisation dedicated to the furtherance of perfume education. For this post, Michael decided to share a sweetened condensed milk accord with some details to make it easier and more understandable for everyone trying to make it. Thank you so much @michaelnordstrandperfumer for your contribution in this project! Here it is and don't forget, sharing is caring: This accord, for me, specifically recalls cooking condensed milk over the stove in Grasse, France with a friend who is the Scientific Director of the Musée Internationale de la Parfumerie (@mip_grasse). It combines milky and creamy raw materials with some of the naturalistic, butyric facets inherent to dairy, which can be somewhat unpleasant to some noses if smelled on their own. These cheesy or buttery facets are balanced with materials that recall the many facets of condensed milk’s depth and sweetness: vanilla, caramel, smoky burnt sugar from the bottom of the pan, custard-like effects, nutty/toasted tonka and maple-like fruity notes, etc. To finish the accord and to make it more sensible for a fine fragrance application, there is a musk complex similar in profile to something like the supremely silken accord found in Musc Ravageur, which can be added or subtracted depending on the level of naturality the perfumer wishes to evoke. Too, the levels of milkiness, sweetness, etc. are all meant to be adjusted to the perfumer’s personal taste; we don’t all have the same experience with this food product! Happy blending.
