Synthetics
Ethylene brassylate smells like a sweet, musky, and slightly oily musk with a long-lasting aroma.
Mosciano, Gerard P&F 23, No. 1, 33, (1998): Powdery, sweet, floral and ambrette-like with woody, spicy and vanilla nuances
Luebke, William tgsc, (1987): Powdery sweet floral ambrette musk woody
Fraterworks: Ethylene brassylate (a macrocyclic lactone) is one of the oldest white musks, being created by dupont in 1934 when its potential was immediately noticed by andre fraysse who gave it its debut in fine fragrance by incorporating it into the musk fond of his masterpeice arpège for lanvin (launched seven years earlier) at just the time the company was exploding to industrial proportions.
Ethylene brassylate became extremely popular due to its ease of use (being a liquid) and the fact that it was considerably cheaper than the other non-nitro musks of the early 20th century, for example muscone and civetone (ruzicka, 1926) and exaltolide® (1930).
This musk is very versatile and can be used in almost any fragrance, but it lends itself particularly well to scents needing a soft vanillic note in the dry down. it also has nuances of ambrette seed, fruit and a light powderiness. this is definitely a must-have musk.
Moellhausen: Musky, herbaceous
Pell Wall Perfumes: Musk, powdery, sweet, floral, ambrette-like with woody, spicy and vanilla nuances
Ethylene brassylate is a macrocyclic musk, like most of those found in nature, it is exceptionally tenacious and a good fixative. it plays well with other musks and is probably best used in combination. one of the cheaper musks but don’t despise it for that it is the essentail workhorse of the musks but no less beautiful for it. see also zenolide for an alternative macrocyclic musk that is also very well priced.
Perfumery Laboratory: Sweet, mealy with notes of seeds of ambretts and vanilla