Synthetics
Orris concrete orris butter smells like a deep, woody-sweet, tobacco-like scent with a delicate, sweet, floral-woody undertone and a soft, floral-fruity undertone.
Luebke, William tgsc, (1989): Sweet floral berry violet green wet wood
Firmenich: Powdery, floral, green-woody, reminiscent of a violet flower
It is used in fine fragrance to give a natural gourmand effect.
Firmenich: Powdery, floral, green-woody, reminiscent of a violet flower
Fraterworks: Iris is perhaps the most esteemed natural in perfumery. it comes in multiple forms depending on use and fraterworks stocks all of them! orris is a complex material so here is a little primer on the types.
Orris tincture (variable irones): clear liquid. alcohol extract from powdered iris roots.
Orris resinoid (1 – 10% irones): dark brown thick paste. alcohol extracted.
Orris butter (10 – 20% irones): solid white wax. also sometimes called orris concrete or orris essential oil. steam distillation.
Orris absolute (80% irones): clear liquid. almost never available for retail sale.
Orris absolute is rarely seen in modern fragrances; the most notable recent exception was the masterpiece dior homme (2005 edition) with 0.25% and 0.3% in iris ganache (guerlain, 2007).
Of all the orris materials, the absolute has the most profoundly strong scent of orris root and a little goes a long way which is fortunate because the price is eye watering.
This orris absolute is from orris pallida.
The Fragrance Conservatory: Obtained from the iris—or more specifically, the root of the iris—this ingredient is beloved for its smooth and enticing aromas of hardwoods and violets.
Perfumer Supply House: A powdery, floral, green-woody, reminiscent of a violet flower.