Introduction
🧪🌹🐎New formula day! Today I want to show you a really great classic, and as you saw, today it’s about Cabochard by Gres.
A fragrance with a story that started after a trip to India, where Madame Gres, a famous french couturier that smelled a very beautiful floral scent with a strong hyacinth note to it. She loved it, it was floral, fresh, and green in the same time. This is how Chouda was born, a perfume that followed the feeling of Madame Gres after she cam from the trip to India, but also a scent that didn’t follow the trend of the ‘50s, more exactly, strong chypre leather. This is the moment where Madame Gres decided to launch two perfumes in the same time, Chouda, the floral scent that reminded her of India and Cabochard (the french for stubborn), a rising star.
Following Bandit by Robert Piguet or Tabac Blond, there was one thing that made these perfumes connect, leather.
The leather used in this formula and also used in Bandit or Tabac Blond is made on a base of IsoButyl Quinoline overdose, along lemon, aldehydes, fruity notes, earthy notes, tobacco, oakmoss, jasmine and many others, together building Cabochard.
With a strong smoky leather and some woody aspects, IsoButyl Quinlone has a sharp, strong smell with undertones of oakmoss. This material is strong, as at the begginings of its life as an aromachemical, it was sold already blended as a base because not all perfumers knew how to handle such a strong and sharp molecule.
Here is a formula that I have from 1001 Perfumes, a book written by Octavian Coifan, a famous Romanian perfumers who lives in France now, and has as a purpose the exercise, the understanding of how aromachemicals work and also have an iconic perfume formula you can contrast with your own creativity. The smell of leather from Cabochard would make a great match with animalic notes like castoreum, incense or and intense Turkish Rose accord.
Let me know if you are going to try this formula and also if you find this post useful, don’t hesitate to share it. It helps others looking for information and also supports my work here.
See you soon!
