Mousse De Saxe

perfumeshrine: Mousse de saxe is a complex creation: it has a dark, sweetish, mossy-woody powdery aspect (indeed chypré) with green, fresh, bracing accents and a musk and leather background of "animalic" character, which is very characteristic once you experience it. de laire probably infused it with its own revolutionary ionone molecule (which entered in violetta by roger & gallet). the bracing, "cutting" freshness is due to the quinolines (bitter green leathery with a hint of styrax), as de laire was among the first to produce these novel ingredients.
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The "mousse de saxe accord" is comprised of geranium, licorice (created with anise), isobutyl quinoline (leather notes), iodine and vanillin (synthesized vanilla). it was used since the turn of the 20th century and produced by the great aroma-producing firm of de laire, a composite made by marie thérèse de laire. edgar de laire's wife gave birth to the new branch of the factory dedicated to the production of aromatic compounds in 1895. founded by chemist georges de laire (1836-1908), the de laire firm quickly became a source of synthetic aroma chemicals and "perfumers' bases" (i.e. a ready-made accord of ingredients producing a specific effect, such as famously prunol, bouvardia, ambré 83 and mousse de saxe), but also of finished fragrances such as de laire's cassis from 1889 or miel blanc.