Description
The thing about natural floral absolutes is that they do not smell like what you imagine when you think tuberose or jasmine. Often times they are more dense and somewhat fruity compared to being the soft and fluffy often portrayed in fragrances. I see the use of aroma chemicals to help elevate a natural absolutes (which is my preferred method of composing).
I wanted to bring back some basics and delve into the more common perfumers accords and get an idea of what some very well known and used notes look like.
First off, Jasmine is a very simple note to pull off with just a few materials if you want the most rudimentary of accords. Just Hedione, Benzyl acetate, and some galaxolide and you’re in your way. This is my interpretation of what I would make if I were to use a jasmine accord. And as always, I like to include naturals in them in some aspects and give it that “real” feel. I decided to go a little against the grain with this accord. The inclusion of bergamot and white grapefruit gives it a brightness and lift. Benzoin adds a richness that has a slight resinous touch without making it a resinous accord. White cognac was an interesting addition I made and was a last minute material I felt would be good in a small dose. It’s winey and slightly dry, boozy effect plays beautifully with the jasmine. And plumeria absolute brings more of that floral, tropical, slightly fruity approach.